Crete travel guide - from someone who lives here

Beaches

• Balos Lagoon - turquoise shallows; go early or take the boat from Kissamos.
• Elafonisi - pinkish sand and shallow water, ideal with kids.
• Preveli - a palm gorge at a river mouth, with a short hike.
• Vai - Europe's largest palm forest on the eastern tip.
• Triopetra and Agiofarango - the south coast without the crowds.

Restaurants and food

Eat where the locals sit: a village taverna has a short, seasonal menu. Try dakos, antikristo, apaki and a shot of raki after the meal. Around Hersonissos and Heraklion you'll find seaside fish tavernas and mountain grill houses - ask us for the list and we'll send our favourites with what to order.

Hidden places

• Mountain villages Zaros, Anogia and Margarites - potters, honey and silence.
• Gorges beyond Samaria: Imbros, Agiofarango, Rouvas.
• The monasteries of Arkadi and Preveli - history before the coaches arrive.
• The windmills of the Lasithi plateau early in the morning.

Driving tips

• The hard shoulder is used for letting faster cars pass - move over.
• Mountain roads are narrow and winding: plan for half the speed the map suggests.
• Fill up before heading into the mountains - village fuel stations are rare.
• Gravel tracks are off-limits with a rental car - reach Balos by boat from Kissamos.
• Parking: never park on a yellow line; use paid car parks in the towns.